Throughout the four plus months I was on the trail, I kept a daily journal. Initially, I was pretty anxious about what I was getting into and my entries contained thoughts about what lay ahead, and what was behind (highschool), but eventually as I got into the rhythm of eat-hike-eat-sleep-repeat the entries became more focused on mileage and food.
Much has changed in the long-distance hiking world since I did this hike. Lightweight gear was only just beginning to show up, hiking in sneakers was still a pretty wild idea, there were no internet websites to help you out and discuss thru-hiking, there were no online journals to chronicle the trip, and there were no worthwhile (compact, good battery life, good resolution...) digital cameras available. I kept my journals the old fashioned way, scribbled in a notebook. My pictures were mostly on slide film (and pretty much useless now), so there isn't much of a visual record of the trip besides the images in my head.
I didn't set out on this trip for soul-searching, and it was kind of on a whim (I'd decided to do it after hearing about it from my English teacher, Mr. House.). I didn't know what I wanted to do for college, so I decided I'd take a hike and maybe I'd figure it out...
Here are my entries from the first week or so. If you have any interest in reading the rest of them, please let me know. I've long wanted to get these things typed out, so it'd be good motivation to if I knew people were interested in reading them. Any comments will be made in italics. I'll start with a picture of me on the summit of Katahdin:
The beginning.
Day 1
Saturday, 6/10/00
Katahdin Stream Campground to Katahdin (Baxter Peak
10.4 miles
Woke up to Rachel’s snoring around 7:00. Got up around 7:30, cooked some oatmeal. It was alright, I’m sure I’ll eat a lot more of it! (I eventually ate so much of it it made me nauseous to look at. I won't eat instant oatmeal to this day) Got our campsite squared away at 8:00. Cleaned up camp and packed.
Started hiking at 8:30. Teal took the lead most of the way up. There were some fairly technical rock sections about 2/3 up. Got excited over a false summit with to miles to top. AARGH! Above treeline it was very windy & cold, below freezing. We had a decent view. Reached top at about 12:00.
Made good time coming down. Passed several people. Kills the knees though. Katahdin stream falls is really pretty. Made it back to camp at about 3:00pm. Rachel set up the tent, Teal and I sat around – that’s the way it oughtta be! Ha.
Cooked dinner about 4:00. Rachel went right to bed. Teal soon followed. I tried to lighten my load and cleaned up camp. Black flies aren’t as bad as I thought. Have seen a couple moose, both within 10 feet of us.
Rach and Teal are both z-ed out. I’m sipping Bailey’s and writing. One day without a shower and I don’t stink yet!
It’s starting to sink in what I am about to do and that I’m done with highschool. It is going to be quite the journey! I hope I hang in there. I already miss the few friends of mine. Rachel and Teal are good company though, too bad I only have a short time with them. I hope I meet some cool person to hike with… we’ll see.
Going to bed ~7:00pm.
Day 2
Sunday, 6/11/00
Katahdin Stream Campground to Rainbow Stream Lean-to.
24.9 miles
Woke up to rain around 3:00am, never really got back to sleep. Got up about 7:00, ate some breakfast. Rachel had snuggled up during the night to stay warm. She said I kept kicking her though… Got stuff out of the car and started packing in the rain. Left for the trailhead ~8:00. I asked Teal and Rachel not to hike with me the first day because it would be miserable for them. I felt sad not having them come along. They hiked with me for about 10-15 minutes then we had to part. Big hug from Rach, firm handshake from Teal, and I was off.
Rained the whole morning and the brush was wet after that. First 9 miles were along a river – very pretty. Would have been beautiful hike with Teal and Rach if was sunny. Made it 9.5 miles in 3 hrs! Made it to Hurd Brook lean-to by 12:30. Ate lunch and continued on. Got spooked by some woodpecker banging on trees. Didn’t know what it was!
Trail was extremely slippery and muddy. Like a f**king mud bog! Boots, gaiters, socks, pants, jacket, and t-shirt all got soaked. I was, with the exception of my feet, still pretty comfortable though.
Hiked along Rainbow Lake
The sun came out for a while! Then it went away because it does that at night sometimes…
It was about 40 degrees [Fahrenheit] all day. Doesn’t feel like June!
Wrote in journal, sipped some more Bailey’s and went to sleep… finally!!! @ 8:00pm.
Hurd Brook Lean-to
Day 3
Monday, 6/12/00
Rainbow Stream Lean-to to Potaywadjo Spring Lean-to
18.2 miles
Woke up about 8:00, a little late. Packed and left by 9:30. Hiking along a creek was gorgeous, nice weather too. Several fisherman in the area.
There were quite a few calf-scorching ascents, especially up Nesuntabunt mountain. Beautiful view, pretty lake, Katahdin in the background. Gnarly descent back down. Hiked along lake for a while, came to a fishing camp hoping they had some cold ones, but no one was there. Came to some other creek then was in a low-land swamp for the rest of the day. Passed Wadleigh Stream Lean-to around 1:00pm. Drank lots of water – hot weather.
Last 3 miles to shelter were bug-infested. So was shelter. 3 people were there – a couple from Canada
I’d wanted to go further but the next shelter was about 12 miles uphill. Screw that! Turned out to be a really nice place. May hit some mountains tomorrow.
I hope I find someone to hike with soon. I hike alone all day, kind of boring sometimes. We’ll see…
Day 4
Tuesday, 6/13/00
Potaywadjo Spring Lean-to to East Branch Lean-to
19.5 miles
Woke up at 6:30. Tara [one of the Canadians] was up before me though. Hardly ate anything for breakfast, just a little oatmeal. Took off by 8:00. Blistering pace due to mosquitoes that would descend like bats out of hell everything you stopped. Had about 3 layers of DEET on, seemed to help a little. I really regret leaving my head-net behind now.
Going was flat until Cooper Brook Falls Lean-to. Made it there (11+ miles) around noon. Gorgeous place. Shortly after leaving a grouse came out of nowhere and chased me about 20 yards back up the trail! Must have been rabid or something… Had to bushwhack about 50 yards to avoid it!
My pack is starting to chafe my hips. Ouch! Feet are doing OK though. Had one hellacious climb to the top of Little Boardman Mountain (1,980’) where I met “Turtle” and “Willow”, a couple from Tennessee. Turtle looks like the classic hill-billy, and he’s a cool guy. Willow
Raced them 3 miles down to East Branch Lean-to. Beat them by an hour and a half! Hurt knee a bit coming down though. I need to slow down and enjoy it more!
Big mountains to climb tomorrow, that oughtta slow me down! Exactly 50 miles to Monson [Maine
Day 5
Wednesday, 6/14/00
East Branch Lean-to to Carl A. Newell Lean-to
10.8 miles
Woke up early, left camp by 8:00. Said goodbye to Willow and Turtle. Made it up to Logan Lean-to by 9:35. Brutal climb up to summit of White Cap Mountain
Got to lean-to around 2:00. Read some of the guide and planned ahead. About 4:30 “The Bull” showed up. He’s a 70-year-old section hiker from Michigan
I really, REALLY stink now! Can’t wait to get to Monson and do laundry and get real food. Few bugs today!
Hard day tomorrow! Willow
2 comments:
Keep it coming, I'm already addicted. Photos would be great. How about some maps to show your progress? Aren't you a google map expert?
I always thought you hiked south to north, so I've already learned something.
And you have tell us your trail name.
Hmm... I don't know what I could do with google maps to show my progress, since it's already done. The weather is pretty crappy here this weekend, so maybe I'll try to figure it out.
Yep, I was one of the rare south-bounders (only about 10% go south). I don't know how many people started southbound that year, but I passed about 60 attempting to thru-hike (I used to hike pretty quick). By the time I got to Georgia, there were only 3 still ahead traveling about the same pace. I only got to know a couple people well enough to know if they made it...
As for the trail name, you'll have to just wait and see!
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